A Travellerspoint blog

Argentina

Buenos Aires (20-25/11/2018)

Santiago to Buenos Aires

The Pajaritas bus terminal (with its station on the metro), which we used when coming to Santiago from Valparaiso, was also very handy for the trip out to the airport for our flight to Buenos Aires - there are buses from Pajaritas every 15 minutes to the airport. Then, a two hour flight over the Andes, smooth border formalities and baggage pickup on arrival, and quickly onto the airport bus in to Retiro near a metro and we thought it would be a similarly calm arrival in BA.

We found later that a taxi from there to the hotel would have been less than 3 euros - so, in retrospect, it would definitely have been the best option! Instead, we walked out to the metro station (knowing that it was only 4 stops to the station near our hotel). Firstly, not knowing the system for BA metro and not understanding the spanish, (we found out the following day) we got ripped off by the ticket attendant (not a big amount but still annoying!), then there were delays on our line which meant it took a long time and the carriage got busy and then, at the stop before our stop, the platform was full of people forcing their way on to the train. We were right at the far side of the carriage from the exit trying to fight our way off at the next stop (using our backpacks as battering rams!), with not a lot of others getting off, and more wanting to get on!! Not a pleasant experience but we made it!

Hotel Marbella, Avenida de Mayo

Buenos Aires is the final stop on our 10 week trip and we had 5 nights. Our hotel, Hotel Marbella, is very well located on the Avenida de Mayo in the centre of the city. We had stayed there twice (with a visit to Uruguay in between) on our trip 10 years ago. Rooms with a view of the street are fine, those in the interior are not! We arrived and the place was full and it looked like we were going to be stuck with an interior room for our last 5 nights on the trip ... but after much dscussion at reception and the fortuitous arrival of the manager, happily, we were able to move to an outside room after the first night. The hotel could certainly do with a makeover but the room facing the street was fine for us - particularly when we found out that the final cost (including simple breakfast) was only 23 euros per night when paid by Credit Card - (foreigners paying by CC or in US dollars avoid 21% local tax) - ridiculously cheap!

Hotel Marbella - 6th floor room facing steet with balcony!

Hotel Marbella - 6th floor room facing steet with balcony!

Hotel Marbella

Hotel Marbella


Hotel Marbella - Our balcony

Hotel Marbella - Our balcony


View from our balcony - rooftops

View from our balcony - rooftops

View from our balcony - rooftops in setting sun

View from our balcony - rooftops in setting sun


View from our hotel balcony in setting sun - Eva Peron image on building

View from our hotel balcony in setting sun - Eva Peron image on building

Buenos Aires was a great place to finish our trip. It is a big city of 12 million and, in some ways, it is like a European city, with wide boulevards and classic European architecture, but also with tango, Argentinian steaks and very fanatical football fans ...

Central BA

The central area includes the Avenida de Mayo (with our hotel) - which crosses the enormously wide Avenida de 9 Julio (impossible to walk across to the other side without waiting for the lights to change twice!), and covers several blocks north towards the Retiro station with the busy Calle Florida being a main pedestrian route. Its a very attractive area, with wide boulevards, lots of palm trees and jacaranda trees (in bloom), and some beautiful classic, old architecture.

Avenida 9 de Julio - Jacaranda tree in full blossom

Avenida 9 de Julio - Jacaranda tree in full blossom

Avenida 9 de Julio

Avenida 9 de Julio


Avenida 9 de Julio - a very wide boulevard to cross!

Avenida 9 de Julio - a very wide boulevard to cross!

Avenida 9 de Julio - Obelisco

Avenida 9 de Julio - Obelisco

Avenida 9 de Julio

Avenida 9 de Julio


Avenida 9 de Julio - monument

Avenida 9 de Julio - monument

Around Buenos Aires centre

Around Buenos Aires centre

Around Buenos Aires centre

Around Buenos Aires centre

Around Buenos Aires centre - Plaza de Mayo

Around Buenos Aires centre - Plaza de Mayo


Around Buenos Aires centre

Around Buenos Aires centre

Around Buenos Aires centre

Around Buenos Aires centre

Around Buenos Aires centre

Around Buenos Aires centre

Around Buenos Aires centre

Around Buenos Aires centre

Around the city centre - near Teatro Colon

Around the city centre - near Teatro Colon

Around the city centre

Around the city centre


Around the city centre

Around the city centre


Around the city centre

Around the city centre

Casa Rosada - Government House (the executive mansion and office of the President of Argentina)

Casa Rosada - Government House (the executive mansion and office of the President of Argentina)


Casa Rosada

Casa Rosada


Casa Rosada

Casa Rosada

Tigre and the River Plate delta

The next day was a glorious day so, after a walk in the central area to get our remaining dollars changed, a visit to the tourist information to get a map and some info and we had changed our room, we took the train out to Tigre (about 30 kms from BA). It is a pleasant small town on the River Plate delta. We took a one-hour boat tour round part of the delta. We had done a similar tour on our last visit and had loved the old houses and jetties along the waterways. There are still good examples of these but there has been quite a lot of development since our last visit (some far too modern for the setting - in our opinion!) - not sure we would want to see it again in another 10 years ...

Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour

Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour

Tigre - our boat for 1 hour tour

Tigre - our boat for 1 hour tour


Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour

Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour


Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour

Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour

Tigre - boat tour round River Plate delta waterways

Tigre - boat tour round River Plate delta waterways


Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour

Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour


Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour

Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour


Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour

Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour

River Plate delta boat trip

River Plate delta boat trip


Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour

Tigre - River Plate Delta 1 hour tour

La Boca

La Boca is a very colourful but touristy neighbourhood to visit which we reached by local bus. It is a poor area so care is needed and we stayed within the few streets 'reserved' for tourists. Good fun, lots of colour, all restaurants seemed to have their own couple doing the tango, tacky tourist shop arcades ...

It is also the home of Boca Juniors - one of the top Argentinian football teams. The last couple of weeks have seen the first leg of the main South American cup final (equivalent to the European Champions League cup final) between La Boca and River Plate - both top teams in Argentina and both from Buenos Aires who have never played each other in this final - so it was really grippng the country. Two weeks ago the first leg was played at La Boca (2-2 draw). When we went down to La Boca on Thursday on the bus there were some very noisy fans on it too - apparently fans were invited to attend a final team training at the ground before the second leg and there were a large number there. Next instalment on Saturday ... Incidentally, no away fans have been allowed at any games between the two clubs since 2013!

La Boca - Caminito

La Boca - Caminito


La Boca

La Boca


La Boca

La Boca


La Boca football stadium

La Boca football stadium


La Boca

La Boca


La Boca

La Boca


La Boca

La Boca


La Boca

La Boca


La Boca

La Boca


La Boca - Tango performers - and interested onlookers?!

La Boca - Tango performers - and interested onlookers?!

San Telmo (grey day)

We really enjoyed the San Telmo neighbourhood which we walked to (south of Avenida de Mayo/Plaza de Mayo) - one of the oldest parts of the city and still with colonial low rise buildings, it has a great market, lots of appealing bars and restaurants and the lovely Plaza Dorrego.

San Telmo - visit on grey day

San Telmo - visit on grey day


San Telmo - visit on grey day

San Telmo - visit on grey day


San Telmo - visit on grey day

San Telmo - visit on grey day


San Telmo - visit on grey day

San Telmo - visit on grey day


San Telmo - visit on grey day

San Telmo - visit on grey day


San Telmo - visit on grey day

San Telmo - visit on grey day


San Telmo - visit on grey day - Mercado

San Telmo - visit on grey day - Mercado

San Telmo - visit on grey day - holed up (but coping!) in the Mercado for a spot of lunch whilst it rained outside

San Telmo - visit on grey day - holed up (but coping!) in the Mercado for a spot of lunch whilst it rained outside

Ricoleto

One morning we took the metro out to Ricoleto. It seems quite a wealthy suburb, and the main reasons people go there are for the weekend craft market and for the cemetery. The cemetery is filled with enormous family mausoleums, many of them very extravagent - one of them contains the remains of Eva Peron. We went on a greyish Thursday and are not terribly keen on cemeteries so just had a short wander round, and were happy that we had called into the local tourist office on arrival, and the guy had recommended an excellent place for a light lunch (El SanJuanino).

Ricoleta Cemetery

Ricoleta Cemetery


Ricoleta cemetery

Ricoleta cemetery


Ricoleta Cemetery

Ricoleta Cemetery


Ricoleta - El Sanjuanino restaurant

Ricoleta - El Sanjuanino restaurant

Ricoleta - El Sanjuanino restaurant

Ricoleta - El Sanjuanino restaurant

Ricoleta - Floris Generica

Ricoleta - Floris Generica

Cafe Tortoni Tango Show

Cafe Tortoni is the oldest cafe in Buenos Aires ... and always has a queue outside! It is only 5 minutes walk from our hotel and we decided to go to a tango show there one night (which they perform in a small basement theatre). Pleasant one-hour show, but would have liked less of the lead guy singing and more of the tango dancers performing!

Cafe Tortoni

Cafe Tortoni


Cafe Tortoni Tango Show

Cafe Tortoni Tango Show

Teatro Colon (Opera House)

On our final day we managed to book a slot for a tour of the Teatro Colon Opera House. The outside of the building is quite austere but the inside is beautiful - spectacular.

Teatro Colon

Teatro Colon


Teatro Colon

Teatro Colon


Teatro Colon

Teatro Colon


Teatro Colon

Teatro Colon

Teatro Colon

Teatro Colon


Teatro Colon

Teatro Colon


Teatro Colon

Teatro Colon


Teatro Colon

Teatro Colon


Teatro Colon

Teatro Colon


Teatro Colon

Teatro Colon

Puero Madera and an encounter with the La Boca fans!

Later, we headed down to the Puerto Madero dock area, in a roundabout way to get down to San Telmo. It is a pleasant place for a stroll but the way we were heading to leave the area seemed to be very noisy with La Boca fans. Apparently, the team were staying in a hotel there before heading off to the River Plate stadium, where the game was due to start at 1700. We found ourselves amongst the masses of fans! Very hectic and noisy, loud fire crackers - we were relieved to escape into the San Telmo area!

Puerto Maduro

Puerto Maduro


Puerto Maduro

Puerto Maduro


Puerto Maduro - Boca Juniors fans

Puerto Maduro - Boca Juniors fans


Puerto Maduro - Boca Juniors fans

Puerto Maduro - Boca Juniors fans

San Telmo (final afternoon of trip ... and SUNNY!)

Quiet when we went in the week on a grey day, the Plaza Dorrego in particular was lively and busy when we returned on the Saturday - loads of artisan stalls there and we saw some superb tango dancing from two separate couples. A bit late ... but we also discovered that there are designated "Cafe Notables" in BA - classic old cafes and bars (apparently 26 currently) - we visited the excellent Cafe El Federal in San Telmo and have been to a few others, but will have to return to BA to check out others!

San Telmo

San Telmo


San Telmo

San Telmo

San Telmo Mercado

San Telmo Mercado


San Telmo - Cafe El Federal

San Telmo - Cafe El Federal

San Telmo - Cafe El Federal

San Telmo - Cafe El Federal

San Telmo - Cafe El Federal

San Telmo - Cafe El Federal

San Telmo - Cafe El Federal

San Telmo - Cafe El Federal


San Telmo Plaza Dorrego

San Telmo Plaza Dorrego


San Telmo Plaza Dorrego and craft market

San Telmo Plaza Dorrego and craft market

San Telmo Plaza Dorrego and craft market

San Telmo Plaza Dorrego and craft market

San Telmo Tango performers - Plaza Dorrego

San Telmo Tango performers - Plaza Dorrego


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large_Studio_20181125_144833.jpg

Heading back to our hotel, we learned that the La Boca team bus had been attacked with stones thrown by some River Plate fan as it arrived at the River Plate stadium for the match. The game was eventually postponed to the following day due to injuries to the La Boca players. "A black day for South American football". It is being played today - Sunday - whilst I am writing this on the plane to London Gatwick! (Later .. on Tuesday it was announced that the match is to be played outside Argentina - a sensible solution as they have to play the game in the next week and the G20 summit is in BA from Thursday!)

The return

This time we hailed a taxi from outside our hotel to Retiro, and then took the airport bus. Easy, comfortable and cheap!

Norwegian Airlines - a first for us...

Norwegian Airlines - a first for us...

Special bird of prey (to see us off!) outside window where we were waiting to board our plane

Special bird of prey (to see us off!) outside window where we were waiting to board our plane

We travelled with the low cost long distance operator Norwegian Airlines for the first time for the flight back to Europe (Buenos Aires - London Gatwick). Thirteen hours is long but we were happy with the flight and would use them again. There is a no frills basic price (for which you get nothing more than a seat on the flight) but for a little more you get : a 20kg bag in the hold, to choose your seat at time of booking, and (very edible) meals - and drinks with those meals - during the flight. They also have good interactive screens (which we have not experienced before) for each passenger with films etc (but take your own earplugs if you dont want to pay $3 extra!), and if you want to order something extra like a gin and tonic (or duty free items) during the flight, you just order it on screen and swipe you credit card below the screen to pay! - and the steward brings it to you 5 minutes later ...

We arrived in Gatwick at 0400 and had to wait there until 1300 (not a comfortable wait!! - I was falling asleep on a stool numerous times!) for our Easyjet flight back to Nice - at least the sun was shining on arrival!

Sunny weather and snow on the Southern Alpes for arrival back home! - the islands are the Iles de Lerins

Sunny weather and snow on the Southern Alpes for arrival back home! - the islands are the Iles de Lerins

THAT'S IT!
Nothing else to add except ... ... it really was a superb trip with a lot of variety ... we'll be back!

Posted by Lindseyalan73 04:16 Archived in Argentina Comments (0)

Mendoza (9-13/11/2018)

Cordoba to Mendoza

It was another long bus journey! - we left Cordoba in bright sunshine(!) at 0730 for the 11 hour journey to Mendoza. It's a BIG country - the scenery was amazing - kilometre after kilometre of flat countryside disappearing into the distance - seemingly endless panoramas and big skies. There were quite a few stops at bus terminals but, unlike Brazil where there are meal stops and everyone gets out for 30 minutes, here, only people finishing their journeys were encouraged to get off the bus.

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - first half

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - first half

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - second half!

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - second half!

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - country dwelling

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - country dwelling

Cordoba to Mendoza by bus - finally some hills!

Cordoba to Mendoza by bus - finally some hills!

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - near Mendiza - with vines!

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - near Mendiza - with vines!

Hostal Confluencia

Arrived in Mendoza in the sun, and took a taxi from the bus terminal to our accommodation - Hostal Confluencia - which has an excellent central location.  We had a very friendly welcome from the people on reception. Great large bedroom in a corner of the second floor of the building with lots of windows looking out over the greenery of the trees and down onto a busy crossroads.  A minor inconvenience is that the private individual bathrooms are all located across the corridor from the bedrooms. 'Included' breakfast, lovely roof garden ... at less than 20 euros per night it is the cheapest and best value accommodation we have had on this trip.

Hostal Confluencia

Hostal Confluencia

Hostal Confluencia

Hostal Confluencia

Hostal Confluencia - roof garden

Hostal Confluencia - roof garden

Hostal Confluencia - roof garden

Hostal Confluencia - roof garden


Hostal Confluencia - Street view from our room

Hostal Confluencia - Street view from our room


Hostal Confluencia - Morning coffee seller on street outside

Hostal Confluencia - Morning coffee seller on street outside


Hostal Confluencia

Hostal Confluencia


Hostal Confluencia

Hostal Confluencia

Around Mendoza

Mendoza is a pleasant small city with a population of 140000.  It is the wine capital of Argentina and is lively and affluent. It seems that all roads in the city are lined by mature trees, which give shade from the sun (which apparently shines practically all the time - except for a lot of the time during our stay!), but means that buildings are often quite obscured for photographs! We have not come across many markets on this trip but here in Mendoza the Mercado Central was just round the corner from the hotel.

There are several pleasant squares and a couple of attractive parks to see but, with the poor weather, we did not get the opportunity to visit them.

With help from the Hostal staff and from two friendly local couples who happened to be sitting next to us on different nights, we found a great variety of spots to eat and drink over the weekend - pizza, pasta, parillada (mixed meat barbecue), burger, wrap ... not to mention the liquid sustenance! Fortunately, one gets a lot of exercise travelling, but eating out in South America is rather more copious and the food less healthy than at home!! Must go on a diet on our return!

Mendoza - Around town centre - typical leafy street

Mendoza - Around town centre - typical leafy street

Mendoza - Around town centre

Mendoza - Around town centre

Don't fall down the hole!

Don't fall down the hole!

Typical large hole in pavement! - tree removed - hole left!

Typical large hole in pavement! - tree removed - hole left!

Mendoza - around town

Mendoza - around town

Around town

Around town

Mercado Central

Mercado Central

Mercado Central

Mercado Central

Mercado Central - Cake and sandwich (white) display (Note: the cut, sliced white sandwiches  - popular all over Argentina it seems)

Mercado Central - Cake and sandwich (white) display (Note: the cut, sliced white sandwiches - popular all over Argentina it seems)

Mercado Central - 'Promocion': 2 slices of pizza and a "chopp" (draft beer) for under 2 euros!

Mercado Central - 'Promocion': 2 slices of pizza and a "chopp" (draft beer) for under 2 euros!

Wine

Wine is, of course, the main reason that tourists come to Mendoza. We decided to limit our visits to the two main areas we could get to reasonably easily by local transport rather than take an expensive wine tasting tour. The two areas we visited were Maipu and Coquimbito which are, it has to be said, not endowed with many grape vines! They do have bodegas there, with token fields of vines, but for a better experience, a visit to, say, the Uco valley (about 2 hours away in the foothills of the Andes), would be a better experience.

Maipu

Our first day in Mendoza we had good weather so, after we had spent the morning walking across town to the bus station to buy tickets for the bus to Valparaiso, and wandered round town, we decided to visit the nearby town of Maipu where there are a couple of bodegas which can be visited. It involved quite a lot of time getting to the outskirts of Maipu by tram, walking to the bodegas and into Maipu itself and a long bus-ride back, and turned out to be a bit of a waste of a pleasant afternoon! Firstly, the Lopez winery offering free tastings, which should have been open all day, was shut! Then, the other bodega we visited, the Antigua Bodega Giol was at least open and the lady handling the tastings was friendly, but they no longer produce their own wine and the tastings were mediocre. She did take our photo for their Facebook page though! A couple of photos for the record ...

Antigua Bodega Giol

Antigua Bodega Giol

Antigua Bodega Giol

Antigua Bodeba Giol - tasting

Antigua Bodeba Giol - tasting

Coquimbito

Sunday was not a good day weatherwise, and wineries are mostly closed, so we did not get much more done than a short walk round town. At least it was not raining on Monday when we caught the bus out to Coquimbito and it turned out to be a much more successful day! After 45 minutes on the bus and 15 minutes walk we arrived at the Bodega Rural - one of the oldest bodegas in Argentina. It offered a tour for around 8 euros - an interesting museum of old winemaking implements and a couple of tastings of pleasant wine. At the end we got a pleasant surprise - the full value of our tour tickets could be used to buy bottles or glasses of wine!! Of course, we can't carry any wine, but the value of the tour ticket was exactly the cost of two ample glasses of very good wine each (we had one white and one red each!). Say no more!

Bodega La Rural

Bodega La Rural

Bodega La Rural

Bodega La Rural - vines!

Bodega La Rural - vines!

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - tasting at end of tour

Bodega La Rural - tasting at end of tour

Bodega La Rural - 2 ample glasses to savour!

Bodega La Rural - 2 ample glasses to savour!

Bodega La Rural - Tasting!

Bodega La Rural - Tasting!

Walk from Bodega La Rural to Trapiche Bodega (a full hour!)

Walk from Bodega La Rural to Trapiche Bodega (a full hour!)

Trapiche Bodega

The lady serving us at the Bodega Rural told us it was only about 15 minutes to walk on to the other winery we wanted to visit, on unpaved roads through the countryside. She obviously had never tried it herself on foot - we arrived at the Trapiche winery about an hour later! This is quite an upmarket winery/vineyard where we had an interesting tour, followed by a tasting of three very good wines, for a little more than the "Rural" tour - but no freebies this time. It was raining by now - 15 minutes walk back to the main road, and back into town on the bus.

Trapiche Bodega

Trapiche Bodega

Trapiche Bodega

Trapiche Bodega

Trapiche Bodega - tour

Trapiche Bodega - tour

Trapiche Bodega - tour

Trapiche Bodega - tour

Trapiche Bodega - tasting room

Trapiche Bodega - tasting room

Trapiche Bodega - tasting

Trapiche Bodega - tasting

We would have preferred better weather, but we really enjoyed Mendoza and our time there.

Posted by Lindseyalan73 15:18 Archived in Argentina Comments (0)

Cordoba (5-9/11/2018)

Sunrise 0611 Sunset 1950 Temps (at best) Min 15 °C Max 28 °C variable

We left Salta at 21.30 for our second and last overnight bus journey, heading for Cordoba (hopefully a mere 11 hour journey)..  We had got tickets for the cama class with large padded seats which recline practically to horizontal and have padded leg rests. Comfort assured?  Although we had bought the tickets shortly after arrival in Salta, we had the last side-by-side seats on this Sunday night bus - and they were right at the back.  With the roads being pretty bumpy, we were practically being tossed out of our seats at times and, as for eating/drinking the meal the hostess bought us ... ... fortunately the 'meal' was so awful we did not want to eat it anyway!  The bus did at least arrive on time at 08h30 the following morning.

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba (Cama class)

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba (Cama class)

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba (Cama class)

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba (Cama class)

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba

Our hotel - the Casa Urbana - was just 5 minutes walk from the bus station and 20 minutes walk from the town centre.  Not a brilliant room (small but OK), decent breakfast included, very friendly and helpful staff on reception and good location.

Hotel Casa Urbana

Hotel Casa Urbana

Cordoba is the number two city in Argentina with a population of 1.4 million, and it certainly felt like a busy lively big city.  It is the one place we have visited on this trip with no tourist shops!  There is a student population of well over 150,000 which makes it lively. We enjoyed the place a lot.

The weather was quite variable and we had to shelter from heavy rain at times but it improved for the last couple of days.  We enjoyed walking around the extensive pedestrianised streets which, if not already shaded by jacaranda trees with their beautiful purple spring blossom, frequently have metal structures erected which are trained with bougainvilla to provide colour and shade, plus there are enormous old trees lining the main traffic routes.

Cordoba - around town

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Cathedral - Plaza San Martin

Cathedral - Plaza San Martin

Cathedral - Plaza San Martin

Cathedral - Plaza San Martin

Cathedral

Cathedral


Cordoba centre pedestrian area

Cordoba centre pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area - Plaza del Fundador

Cordoba - central pedestrian area - Plaza del Fundador

Cordoba - central pedestrian area with jacaranda tree in blossom

Cordoba - central pedestrian area with jacaranda tree in blossom

Cordoba - central pedestrian area with jacaranda tree in blossom

Cordoba - central pedestrian area with jacaranda tree in blossom

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area


Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba - very thin building!

Cordoba - very thin building!

Fortunately on the first day we were told of a couple of great places to head for the hotel reception staff. The first was the Paseo de Bien Pastor area in town with lots of restaurants and bars, about 10 minutes walk from the hotel, and which, in decent weather, is absolutely heaving in the evening (mainly with students).  Here, we discovered the Patagonia bar which sells excellent Patagonia beers from the south of Argentina. And here we were recommended their delicious "km24.8" brew.  In the Happy Hour (pre 20h00) they sell their pints at just 80 ARS (about 2 euros!) so we just had to join the masses (most about a third of our age!) for a pint each evening before our meal.  The other recommendation was the Cliento Volando restaurant just a block away from our hotel on the way back from Paseo de Bien Pastor - good food, varied choice, friendly waiter, and inexpensive.  We also checked out and enjoyed the local empanadas (small pies) for lunch and locro (meat, sweetcorn and beans stew) for dinner - at the simple but enjoyable corner joint (La Vieja Esquina).

Cordoba - entertainment!

Paseo del Buen Pastor area (and Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus church opposite)

Paseo del Buen Pastor

Paseo del Buen Pastor

Paseo del Buen Pastor

Paseo del Buen Pastor

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar - excellent "km 24.7" beer

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar - excellent "km 24.7" beer

The church nearby was impressive and well lit in the evenings

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

La Vieja Esquina

La Vieja Esquina for dinner (with Locra - meat and corn stew)

La Vieja Esquina for dinner (with Locra - meat and corn stew)


La Vieja Esquina for dinner (with Locra - meat and corn stew)

La Vieja Esquina for dinner (with Locra - meat and corn stew)


La Vieja Esquina - bite for lunch (empanadas)

La Vieja Esquina - bite for lunch (empanadas)

Cordoba - Museums etc

Cordoba is heavily influenced by its Jesuit origins - and its impressive buildings reflect this. We managed to visit several of the sights, including:

- the Manzana Jesuitica - basically an amazing Baroque church with the curved roof constructed with wood and no nails - we were fortunate to have a personal, practically free, guided tour by a very knowledgable and very good English speaker, who gave us a lot of insight into the Jesuits in Argentina and Argentina generally - while showing us round part of the original university

- Archivo Provincial/Museo dela Memoria - a poignant memorial museum to the many who were tortured and 'disappeared' in Cordoba in the days of military rule in Argentina. It is located in the original Police Intelligence Department known in the 70s as a Torture and Extermination Clandestine Detention Center.  Many young people were taken from their families in the 70's and were never seen again. It was a shock to us - these were young people of our generation - and this was happening while we were at university.

- Museo Marques de Sobremonte (only surviving colonial residence in the city).

Manzana Jesuitica

Manzana Jesuitica

Manzana Jesuitica

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica

Manzana Jesuitica

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Money

An aside - we noticed very long queues of locals at certain banks to use the ATMs.  We are still not sure why ...  No change for us regarding the paltry amounts that can be withdrawn at one time and the very high commission fees .  We are still trying to pay for as much as possible by whatever card is accepted, changed some more euros here in Cordoba and have not had to use any ATMs since our first withdrawal in Puerto Iguazu. Also, still finding that some places (restaurants mainly) don't accept Mastercard - only Visa!

Queuing to access cash machines

Queuing to access cash machines

Day out in Alta Gracia

One day we went out on the local bus to Alta Gracia - a small town about 40 kms south.  Here, we visited the excellent Estancia Jesuitica Alla Gracia and then walked through a very pleasant neighbourhood (with large colonial houses) to the Museo Casa de Ché Guevara and the Museo Manuel de Falla, before taking the bus back.

Ché Guevara is, of course, a name well known to us from our student days.  He lived at the house in Alta Gracia for some years in his youth wth his family, and the exhibition has plenty of his personal belongings and photos, and traces his travels, involvement with Castro in the Cuban revolution and eventual (young) death whilst engaged in a revolution in Bolivia.

Not being classical music buffs, we had not heard of Manuel de Falla, but he is the most famous Spanish classical music composer and conductor and he lived his last years at the house in Alta Gracia. There was some interesting art work on display - including portraits of de Falla by his friends, Picasso and Dali. A very good day out.

Jesuit Mission

Alta Gracia - Clock tower and tourist office

Alta Gracia - Clock tower and tourist office

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

large_DSC04614.JPGEstancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit church

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit church

Colourful tree

Colourful tree


Colourful tree - the red things are seed pods!

Colourful tree - the red things are seed pods!

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara Museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Old car in residential area - Alta Gracia

Old car in residential area - Alta Gracia

Casa de Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Posted by Lindseyalan73 17:59 Archived in Argentina Comments (0)

Salta (31/10-4/10/2018)

Sunrise 0632 Sunset 1939 Temps (at best) Min 17 °C Max 29 °C but variable weather

Puerto Iguazu to Salta by road is about 30 hours, so we took a flight instead !  There was a major storm all night and it was still raining very heavily as we left our pousada in Puerto Iguazu in the taxi for the 1030 flight.  We felt sorry for the American couple we had been talking to the previous day who said they would be visiting the Brazilian side of the falls today!

Although an hour or so late leaving, the flight was fine and we arrived in Salta in grey, but much more clement, weather.  The taxi for the 10km ride to our posada in Salta got us there safely - but then problems started!  The place did not give a positive impression on arrival, and when we were shown the room we definitely knew we did not want to stay there for 4 nights! (our first accommodation disappointment of the trip!)  So, we left and found a tourist office who suggested a few places and we then walked to the main square and did what we did in the old days before the internet was available - found a table at a cafe, left Lindsey with the rucksacks and I went on a wander to find a place to stay.  Problem: the Salta Olympics (!) were taking place from Thursday (the following day) to the weekend, and so accommodation for 4 consecutive nights was not obvious !  I disappeared for long stretches (and got to see the town) and Lindsey started to get quite concerned about me!.  To cut a long story short ... after several hours, at about 18h00 we ended up with the mid-range Hotel Wilson for 1 night but knowing that they had nothing free for the following night - so had the prospect of searching again the following day!!  Anyway, when we went down to breakfast the next morning, the manager was able to confirm we would be ok for the four nights there.  Phew!   (Incidentally, the posada did not enforce the cancellation fees - we had sent a complaint to booking.com).

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Sliced white bread sandwiches - popular like this!

Sliced white bread sandwiches - popular like this!

Around Salta on a grey day - chatting to a local!

Around Salta on a grey day - chatting to a local!

We had been told by several people,before we arrived in Salta, what a lovely town it is. But on a grey day and after our initial problems we were not so sure! However, in the following days, with the sun shining, the tree-filled main square (Plazza de 9 Julio), which is surrounded by some beautiful colonial architecture and the cathedral, looked lovely, and walking around the residential areas to the north of the square was very pleasant - plus we found a couple of great places to eat (Viracocha restaurant and Dona Salta) - things definitely looked much better. Also, the area (Salta/Cafayate/Cachi) now rivals Mendoza for the quality of its wines - Malbec (red) and the local speciality Torrontes (delicious fruity dry white) are the main varieties.  Good bottles in a restaurant can easily be had for 5-8 euros!!

Hotel Wilson - our hotel, finally!

Hotel Wilson - our hotel, finally!

Plaza 9 de Julio

Plaza 9 de Julio

Plaza 9 de Julio

Plaza 9 de Julio

Plaza 9 de Julio

Plaza 9 de Julio

Around Plaza 9 de Julio

Around Plaza 9 de Julio

towards the Cathedral

towards the Cathedral

Cathedral

Cathedral

Cathedral interior

Cathedral interior

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta!! - Carrefour!

Around central Salta!! - Carrefour!

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Basilica San Fernando

Basilica San Fernando

Around Salta town

Around Salta town

Cathedral at night

Cathedral at night

Arund Plaza 9 de Julio at night

Arund Plaza 9 de Julio at night

Arund Plaza 9 de Julio at night

Arund Plaza 9 de Julio at night

Basilica San Fernando

Basilica San Fernando

Viracocha Restaurant

Viracocha Restaurant

Viracocha Restaurant

Viracocha Restaurant

Dona Salta restaurant

Dona Salta restaurant

Dona Salta restaurant

Dona Salta restaurant

There is some very spectacular scenery, and attractive places to stay (eg Cafayate and Cachi) around Salta, so we will have to go back some time!  However, we did go on a day-tour south to Cafayate with a tour company recommended by the manager at our hotel.  As it is 200 kms to Cafayate, we left the hotel in a minibus with guide at 07h30 - and did not get back until more than 12 hours later at 20h15.  Good value at around 25 euros per person. We were lucky again with the weather, hot and sunny. The last 40kms before Cafayate pass through the Quebrada de las Conchas, where the scenery is amazing - we stopped several times on the way to have a closer look at some of the spectacular sights, and to walk up to and into the enormous rock formations. Our guide was a real character - very knowledgeable and interesting, he educated us in the habits of traditional Argentina (how to use coca leaves, and prepare and drink mate), and also performed a 'sonnet' with a busker friend he meet up with in the Amphitheatre - very powerful (we certainly got the gist - even if we didn't understand it!) - see photo. We finally arrived in Cafayate - and had a couple of hours in the attractive colonial town - before an excellent visit to the Domingo Hermanos Bodega for a tasting of their local wines. An action-packed, very good day out - we didn't even make it into town on our return!

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate - Agustin the guide

On the way to Cafayate - Agustin the guide

On the way to Cafayate - lots of Cactus

On the way to Cafayate - lots of Cactus

On the way to Cafayate - large cactus

On the way to Cafayate - large cactus

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

large_IMG_6064.JPGOn the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate


On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate


On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas


On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas


On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

Around Cafayate

Around Cafayate

Around Cafayate

Around Cafayate

Lunch at Cafayate - Empanadas at home brew restaurant

Lunch at Cafayate - Empanadas at home brew restaurant


Cafayate craft market

Cafayate craft market

Domingo Hermanos Bodega

Domingo Hermanos Bodega

Domingo Hermanos Bodega - vines

Domingo Hermanos Bodega - vines

Domingo Hermanos Bodega - wine tasting

Domingo Hermanos Bodega - wine tasting

Domingo Hermanos Bodega - wine tasting - by our guide!

Domingo Hermanos Bodega - wine tasting - by our guide!


On the way back from Cafayate - road heading for Andes

On the way back from Cafayate - road heading for Andes


On the return from Cafayate - with snow on distant volcano

On the return from Cafayate - with snow on distant volcano


On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate


On the return from Cafayate

On the return from Cafayate


On the return from Cafayate

On the return from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate - our transport

On the way back from Cafayate - our transport

On the return from Cafayate

On the return from Cafayate

On the return from Cafayate - "The Auditorium"

On the return from Cafayate - "The Auditorium"

On the return from Cafayate - our guide and local busker in "the Auditorium"

On the return from Cafayate - our guide and local busker in "the Auditorium"

There is also a cable car up a hill to the west of the city which gives great views of the town and surroundings.  We took the cable car up, and then walked down - quite a tortuous (but pleasant) descent with apparently 1070 steps!  We passed several locals running/walking up the steps to keep themselves fit.....walking down was enough for us!

Cable car up San Bernando Hill

Cable car up San Bernando Hill

San Bernando statue

San Bernando statue

View from San Bernando Hill

View from San Bernando Hill

View from San Bernando Hill

View from San Bernando Hill

View from San Bernando Hill

View from San Bernando Hill

Basilica San Fernando from San Bernando Hill

Basilica San Fernando from San Bernando Hill

Path down from San Fernando hill

Path down from San Fernando hill

View from path down from San Fernando hill

View from path down from San Fernando hill

Path down from San Fernando hill

Path down from San Fernando hill

General Quemes statue at bottom of San Fernando hill

General Quemes statue at bottom of San Fernando hill

Bulboüs and very prickly tree near bottom of San Fernando hill

Bulboüs and very prickly tree near bottom of San Fernando hill

Near bottom of San Fernando hill

Near bottom of San Fernando hill

In the end Salta grew on us and we had a very enjoyable stay - we would certainly go back to spend more time in the surrounding region.

Posted by Lindseyalan73 12:05 Archived in Argentina Comments (0)

Puerto Iguazu and Iguazu Falls (27-31/10/2018)

Puerto Iguazu is the point marked below the "O" in Asuncion.

Sunrise 0547 Sunset 1857 Temps Min 19 °C Max 30 °C Sunny

Iguacu Falls (view from walkway below falls on Brazil side)

Iguacu Falls (view from walkway below falls on Brazil side)

Iguazu Falls Argentina side - San Martin falls

Iguazu Falls Argentina side - San Martin falls

WARNING: Lots of photos!! difficult to resist - the Falls are just spectacular!!

The Iguazu Falls are one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World.  They are a vast complex of between 170 and 250 falls (dependent upon river levels) with 19 of them being major waterfalls.  We saw them in 2008 on our previous trip to South America and they are MAGNIFICENT - we had to come back.  20% of the falls are in Brazil, 80% in Argentina.  Visits can be made from both sides, which offer quite different experiences,  In contrast to the weather in the previous couple of weeks, we had excellent sunny weather for the 3 days we were there ...

To Puerto Iguazu

We took the bus overnight from Florianopolis to Foz do Iguacu, leaving at 1620 and arriving two hours late at 0915 (only 17 hours!)
Reasonably comfortable journey.  Foz do Igaucu is the town on the Brazilian side of the falls, but we were staying at the rather more attractive and relaxed Puerto Iguazu across the river in Argentinà.  So, we took the bus into the centre of Foz, then another bus to Puerto Iguazu, but not as simple as it sounds. First stop - the Brazilian border where formalities (for visitors from non-local countries) took just a couple of minutes but the bus does not wait - and the next bus from the same company only arrived one hour later - it then stops at the Argentina border formalities across the river - where everyone has to go through - and finally we arrived at the Puerto Iguazu bus station.

First chore: get some local money.  This had been easy in Brazil where the Bradesco bank ATMs were simple, charged no commission and allowed withdrawals of, say, the equivalent of 250 euros.  Not so in Argentina, it seems!  The maximum allowed was 2000 ARS (Argentinian pesos) - about 50 euros - for which they charged 387 ARS commission on top (nearly 19%!!!).  Other banks there were the same.  Fortunately, we found a money-changing agency nearby with good rates (=low commission) so we later changed some euros and are hoping to find something more attractive from banks in the bigger towns ... we have some euros and dollars but not a lot of course.  As there are no fees on foreign transactions on the credit card we are using, we are now paying everything we are able to with the card to conserve the Argentinian cash.  

After raining all night, the weather had finally improved and we walked to our accommodation - the Petit Hotel Caraguata - which is in an attractive leafy residential neighbourhood about 15 minutes from the centre.  Pleasant place to stay, friendly helpful staff (Miriam in particular who spoke good English), comfortable room overlooking the pool(!).

Overnight bus trip - late evening stop with several other buses !

Overnight bus trip - late evening stop with several other buses !

Petit Hotel Caragueta

Petit Hotel Caragueta

Petit Hotel Caragueta

Petit Hotel Caragueta

Petit Hotel Caragueta

Petit Hotel Caragueta

Around Puerto Iguazu

We then had the afternoon available (before the iguazu Falls experience!) so walked out to the 3 Fronteras viewpoint on the edge of town, which overlooks the joining of the Iguazu and the Parana rivers, which mark the frontiers of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay.  Pleasant walk, returning towards town along the river, with a beer by the river as sunset approached.  That evening, instead of walking into town to eat, we took up Miriam's suggestion and went to the El Quincho del Tio Querido restaurant just up the road - a very large Parilla (= Barbecue) restaurant and tried the 1/2 parillada for two - barbecued mixed grilled meats (more than enough for two) ribs, beef steak, chicken, pork, sausages ... ... - an experience we enjoyed so much we decided to repeat it on our last night (about 20 euros for two including a tasty bottle of red wine).

Hito 3 Fronteras - where the rivers Iguazu and Parana meet, Paraguay (across the river on far side) , Brazil (across the river top right), Argentina (from where the photo is taken)

Hito 3 Fronteras - where the rivers Iguazu and Parana meet, Paraguay (across the river on far side) , Brazil (across the river top right), Argentina (from where the photo is taken)

Hito 3 Fronteras

Hito 3 Fronteras

El Quincho del Tio Querido Parilla restaurant - Puerto Iguazu

El Quincho del Tio Querido Parilla restaurant - Puerto Iguazu

El Quincho del Tio Querido Parilla restaurant - Puerto Iguazu

El Quincho del Tio Querido Parilla restaurant - Puerto Iguazu

Iguacu Falls - Brazilian side

Next day we took the bus to the Brazilian Iguacu falls which, of course, involved going through both the border formalities on the way there and on the way back - but at least the bus waited for everyone each time!  The park there is well organised to handle the large number of visitors who arrive daily and, once the tickets are bought, a fleet of double decker buses ferries the visitor the several kilometres from the entrance to the start of the trail, and then back at the end of the day.

There is just one trail of 3km on the Brazil side - which is directly opposite the main falls on the Argentinian side and gives magnificent panoramic views. It then leads up to the biggest waterfall and has a walkway leading right out into the middle in front of these falls above the foaming waters - an amazing experience which leaves you very wet from all the spray!  Finally, you clamber up the path to the restaurant area which gives good views of the top of the main waterfall and the river leading up to the falls - and of a cayman basking on the rocks below the restaurant!

The visit can be done in a couple of hours but it was Sunday and quite busy, despite being Brazil's Presidential election day, and we took it easy, waiting for the masses to take their selfies with the waterfalls behind them, and then move on, and we could get to the good spots and appreciate the fantastic views.  With a break to eat our picnic sandwiches (once we finally found a spot where we did not get hassled by tbe coatis(!)), we spent 4-5 hours there.  Superb.

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side)

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side)


Iguacu Brazil - Busy day! - queuing for buses from entrance to park to viewing trail

Iguacu Brazil - Busy day! - queuing for buses from entrance to park to viewing trail

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - transport from entrance to start of falls trail

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - transport from entrance to start of falls trail


First view of Iguacu falls

First view of Iguacu falls


Lindsey with friend (?) - Coati - at first viewpoint next to 'Dont feed the Coatis notice'

Lindsey with friend (?) - Coati - at first viewpoint next to 'Dont feed the Coatis notice'


Coati

Coati

Iguacu falls

Iguacu falls

Iguacu Falls - San Martin waterfall -zoom

Iguacu Falls - San Martin waterfall -zoom

Iguacu Falls - view from initial viewpoint

Iguacu Falls - view from initial viewpoint

View up towards biggest waterfall

View up towards biggest waterfall


Panoramic view of falls on Argentinian side

Panoramic view of falls on Argentinian side

Lots of colourful butterflies en route
IMG_5390.JPGDSC03618.JPGStudio_20181031_102010.jpgStudio_20181031_100857.jpgStudio_20181031_100151.jpgDSC03705.JPG

... several butterflies landing on us to have their photos taken!

Coati

Coati

Coatis

Coatis


Iguacu falls and soaring vulture

Iguacu falls and soaring vulture

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - reptile on tree

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - reptile on tree

Iguacu falls - long distance view of main walkway in front of biggest and highest waterfall (Union)

Iguacu falls - long distance view of main walkway in front of biggest and highest waterfall (Union)

Iguacu falls - zoom on main walkway in front of biggest and highest waterfall (Union)

Iguacu falls - zoom on main walkway in front of biggest and highest waterfall (Union)

Iguacu falls - Lindsey on main walkway in front of biggest and highest waterfall

Iguacu falls - Lindsey on main walkway in front of biggest and highest waterfall

View of falls from end of walkway in front of biggest and highest waterfall

View of falls from end of walkway in front of biggest and highest waterfall

View from end of walkway in front of biggest and highest waterfall

View from end of walkway in front of biggest and highest waterfall

View downriver from end of walkway in front of biggest and highest waterfall (Union)

View downriver from end of walkway in front of biggest and highest waterfall (Union)

Drenched after the visit to the end of the walkway!

Drenched after the visit to the end of the walkway!

Iguacu Brazil - Coati raiding waste bin

Iguacu Brazil - Coati raiding waste bin

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - at the side of the falls

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - at the side of the falls

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - at the side of the falls

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - at the side of the falls

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - view from above falls

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - view from above falls

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - view of walkway from top

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - view of walkway from top

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - zoom view of walkway from top

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - zoom view of walkway from top

Iguacu Brazil - Iguana

Iguacu Brazil - Iguana


Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - river leading to falls

Iguacu Falls (Brazil side) - river leading to falls

Iguacu Brazil - river leading to falls and Cayman (bottom left)

Iguacu Brazil - river leading to falls and Cayman (bottom left)

Iguacu Brazil - Cayman

Iguacu Brazil - Cayman

Iguazu Falls - Argentinian side

Next day it was the Argentinian side, which we also reached by bus - same price but rather simpler and quicker.

The Argentinian Iguazu Falls Park is quite different from the Brazilian counterpart, with a much larger area to explore, really getting into the thick of the wonderful environment. There are three trails:

- Circuit Inferior (the lower circuit: below and to the side of the numerous falls on the Argentinian side)
- Circuit Superior (the upper circuit: running along the river by the top of the falls)
- Garganta del Diablo ie Devil'sThroat (an electric train - or a long walk - and then a further walkway - take people right out nearly to the other side of the river to where the biggest waterfall plunges over to the Brazilian side we had experienced from the previous day)

There's lots of wildlife to see - Toucans plus several other colourful birds, capuchin monkeys, river turtles, reptiles, more colourful butterflies ... and of course the coatis (which may look cute, but which can be extremely vicious when they see food - produce a sandwich and they appear from nowhere!).

It was a wonderful experience which takes a full day (1000 - 1700) and, as they have a special offer of a second successive day at half price, we took advantage and went for several hours the following day. Indeed, the next day was very different because, although very sunny, it was more humid and breezy, making the vapour clouds produced by the falls more extensive, which significantly changed the viewing at Garganta del Diablo in particular.

Iguazu Falls Argentina

Iguazu Falls Argentina

Iguazu Falls Argentina - entrance

Iguazu Falls Argentina - entrance


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Green trail (short trail near entrance leading to main circuits)

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Green trail (short trail near entrance leading to main circuits)

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Green trail (short trail near entrance leading to main circuits)

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Green trail (short trail near entrance leading to main circuits)

Toco Toucans - Iguazu Falls Argentina (en route to Circuit Inferior)

Toco Toucans - Iguazu Falls Argentina (en route to Circuit Inferior)

Aguti - Iguazu Falls Argentina (en route to Circuit Inferior)

Aguti - Iguazu Falls Argentina (en route to Circuit Inferior)

Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior- Alvar Nunez falls

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior- Alvar Nunez falls


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior- Alvar Nunez falls

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior- Alvar Nunez falls


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior


Iguazu Falls Argebtina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argebtina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior with boat waiting to move close up to San Martin falls

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior with boat waiting to move close up to San Martin falls


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior - Boat up close!! - this boat ride not for us!

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior - Boat up close!! - this boat ride not for us!


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior with view of walkway below falls on Brazil side

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior with view of walkway below falls on Brazil side


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior - Bossetti falls up close

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior - Bossetti falls up close


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior - Bossetti falls up close

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior - Bossetti falls up close


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior - Bossetti falls

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior - Bossetti falls


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior - Bossetti falls

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior - Bossetti falls


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior - temporary coati free zone = picnic sandwich stop

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior - temporary coati free zone = picnic sandwich stop


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Inferior

Circuit Superior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Superior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Superior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Superior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Superior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Superior

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Superior

... ... interesting to see the photos below of the approach to the Bonnetti falls below (together with the photos shown earlier beside/below the Bonnetti falls

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Superior - upstream from Bossetti falls

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Superior - upstream from Bossetti falls


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Superior - down towards Bossetti falls

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Superior - down towards Bossetti falls


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit - at Bossetti Falls

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit - at Bossetti Falls


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Superior - Bossetti falls

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Circuit Superior - Bossetti falls


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Capuchin Monkey

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Capuchin Monkey

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Capuchin Monkey

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Capuchin Monkey

Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - train to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - train to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - walkway to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - walkway to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - walkway to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - walkway to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - walkway to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - walkway to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - walkway to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - walkway to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - walkway approaching Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - walkway approaching Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - approach to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - approach to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Some more nature shots

BUTTERFLIES

Studio_20181031_123713.jpgStudio_20181103_175630.jpgStudio_20181031_133224.jpgStudio_20181031_133329.jpg

on way to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat) - cluster of butterflies enjoying pool of water
large_IMG_5849.JPGlarge_Studio_20181031_132038.jpg

REPTILES

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Iguana - don't stick your tongue out at me!!

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Iguana - don't stick your tongue out at me!!


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Superior Circuit

OTHER

Turtle - Iguazu falls Argentina

Turtle - Iguazu falls Argentina

BIRDS

Iguazu falls Argentina - walkway to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat) - Urracu Paraguaya (Plush-Crested Jay)

Iguazu falls Argentina - walkway to Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat) - Urracu Paraguaya (Plush-Crested Jay)


Iguazu Falls Argentina - Urracu Paraguaya (Plush-Crested Jay)

Iguazu Falls Argentina - Urracu Paraguaya (Plush-Crested Jay)


Red-rumped Caciques and hanging nest - Iguazu Falls Argentina

Red-rumped Caciques and hanging nest - Iguazu Falls Argentina

Red-rumped Cacique - Iguazu Falls Argentina

Red-rumped Cacique - Iguazu Falls Argentina

Red-rumped Cacique - Iguazu Falls Argentina

Red-rumped Cacique - Iguazu Falls Argentina

... its not easy to get photographs showing the red rump - its only really visible when they fly!

STUDY OF GREAT DUSKY SWIFT

The Great Dusky Swift is the emblem of the Argentina Iguazu Falls park. There are lots of them flying round the falls and they fly under the actual falls to perch on the rocks behind. With a decent new telephoto lens on the SLR camera it was fun to try to get some good shots of them!

Great Dusky Swifts - used as emblem of Iguazu Falls Argentina

Great Dusky Swifts - used as emblem of Iguazu Falls Argentina


Great Dusky Swift - Iguazu Falls Argentina

Great Dusky Swift - Iguazu Falls Argentina


Iguazu falls Argentina - Great Dusky Swift at Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - Great Dusky Swift at Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Iguazu falls Argentina - Great Dusky Swift at Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)

Iguazu falls Argentina - Great Dusky Swift at Garganta del Diablo (Devil'sThroat)


Great Dusky Swift - Iguazu Falls Argentina

Great Dusky Swift - Iguazu Falls Argentina


Great Dusky Swifts - Iguazu Falls Argentina

Great Dusky Swifts - Iguazu Falls Argentina

Great Dusky Swifts - Iguazu Falls Argentina

Great Dusky Swifts - Iguazu Falls Argentina

Great Dusky Swifts - Iguazu Falls Argentina

Great Dusky Swifts - Iguazu Falls Argentina

And that's it! - until the next time!

Posted by Lindseyalan73 04:36 Archived in Argentina Comments (0)

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