A Travellerspoint blog

November 2018

Santiago (16-20/11/2018)

Sunrise 0629 Sunset 2028 Temps Min 14 °C Max 32 °C sunny

The journey from Valparaiso to Santiago was the shortest of the whole trip and quite relaxed (all the way without taking a taxi) - taking the usual ascensor (funicular) down from near the Yellow House, trolley bus to the bus terminal, coach for the 1.5 hours trip to the Parajitas terminal in Santiago from where we took the metro to Cummings station, just a block away from our hotel. 

Mery Hotel

The Mery Hotel turned out to be a lovely old hotel -  very attractively decorated and furnished - and a really pleasant place to spend our 4 nights in Santiago.  (However, only one room of eight has an external window - room 2 - which we had requested in advance).   The hotel is family-owned, and run by two very friendly and helpful sisters.  Breakfast was not included, but there was a kitchen with fridge etc to make your own.  Good to have a change and have some fresh fruit and greek yoghourt (the regular yoghurt was far too sweet!) and we even made ourselves scrambled eggs on a couple of mornings.

Hotel Mery

Hotel Mery

Hotel Mery

Hotel Mery

Hotel Mery

Hotel Mery

Hotel Mery

Hotel Mery

The hotel is located in the lively Brasil barrio which has lots of bars and restaurants and is about 10 blocks west of the town centre (20 minutes walk). We had a bit of added interest each time we walked to and from town - in the adjacent street to our hotel a couple of artists were advancing with a large mural and we followed their progress with interest!

Mural in adjacent street to hotel when we arrived

Mural in adjacent street to hotel when we arrived

Mural in adjacent street to hotel when we left

Mural in adjacent street to hotel when we left

Santiago is the 6th largest city in South America and the centre for the most part is quite modern with a lot of high-rise sdevelopment, interspersed with some attractive and imposing colonial buildings. The centre was pleasant to walk round although it was rather hot (30 °C+) for much of our time there.  

The main hub is the Plaza de Armas - a typical Chilean/Argentinian large square with plenty of trees for shade, surrounded by attractive buildings.  Heading south from there is the main shopping area and financial centre with pedestrianised areas.

Plaza de Armas

Plaza de Armas

Plaza de Armas

Plaza de Armas

Plaza de Armas

Plaza de Armas

Plaza de Armas

Plaza de Armas

Plaza de Armas

Plaza de Armas

Plaza de Armas

Plaza de Armas

Plaza de Armas

Around the city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

Around Santiago city centre

In the pedestrian areas we found several establishments, much used by the business community, which were worthy of a pitstop!  Haiti and Caribe coffee houses had at least two outlets each serving very good coffee - possibly their popularity was partly due to the figure-hugging, very short dresses worn by the waitresses!

The Bar Nacional No 1 was another 'institution'.  (There is also a No 2 but its not nearly as interesting).  On the ground floor people sit up at the counter with friendly servers behind.  We discovered the place 10 years ago on our previous visit to Santiago and revisited it a couple of times to enjoy their chicken and crushed avocado sandwiches - yummm!  A lawyer/accountant (as he described himself) we were talking to whilst he had his lunch told us that, between 1940 and 1960, Presidents of Chile would regularly come and have their lunches at the same counter with two armed bodyguards standing behind them (sitting where we were!).

Bar Nacional 1 - Chicken and avocado sandwich - delicious

Bar Nacional 1 - Chicken and avocado sandwich - delicious


Bar Nacional No 1 - Making a Pisco Sour

Bar Nacional No 1 - Making a Pisco Sour

Bar Nacional No 1 - Making a Pisco Sour

Bar Nacional No 1 - Making a Pisco Sour

Bar Nacional No 1 - Pisco Sour

Bar Nacional No 1 - Pisco Sour


Ingredients: Pisco, lemon or lime Juice, egg white or syrup. Preparation: Vigorously shake and strain contents in a cocktail shaker with ice cubes, then pour into glass.

Mercado Central

About 4 blocks north of Plaza de Armas is the Mercado Central.  It is mainly fish-orientated with lots of fresh fish stalls, a multitude of fish restaurants and tourist shops. A good spot but need to be aware of pickpockets!

Mercado Central

Mercado Central

Mercado Central - lots of fish!

Mercado Central - lots of fish!

Mercado Central - lots of fish!

Mercado Central - lots of fish!

Mercado Central

Mercado Central

Mercado Central - lunch (  musician!)

Mercado Central - lunch (+ musician!)

Cerro Santa Lucia Park

About 10 minutes east of Plaza de Armas is an interesting and attractive small park which is on a steep mound/rock - Cerro Santa Lucia.  Great views of the surroundings from the top.  

Cerro Santa Lucia Park

Cerro Santa Lucia Park

View from Cerro Santa Lucia Park

View from Cerro Santa Lucia Park

large_DSC05302.JPGCerro Santa Lucia Park

Cerro Santa Lucia Park

View from Cerro Santa Lucia Park

View from Cerro Santa Lucia Park

Cerro Santa Lucia Park

Cerro Santa Lucia Park

Cerro Santa Lucia Park - view of Cerro San Cristobel hill (other park visited later)

Cerro Santa Lucia Park - view of Cerro San Cristobel hill (other park visited later)

Cerro San Cristobel Park

Looking north, there is a large hill - Cerro San Cristobel - which forms the Parque Metropolitano - a large park and top attraction of Santiago.  We decided to go on the Sunday - a beautiful but very hot day - as did large numbers of locals - so there was a long queue for the funicular up to the top!  (We walked the steep track down - not an option to walk up it in the heat that day in our opinion).  On the summit there is a colossal statue of the Virgin Mary and there are magnificent views over the city and of the Andes with some snow on the mountain tops. Its a big park where one could easily spend all day.

Santiago river on the way to Cerro San Cristobel

Santiago river on the way to Cerro San Cristobel


Serro San Cristobel Park - Long queue for funicilar tickets! (Sunday)

Serro San Cristobel Park - Long queue for funicilar tickets! (Sunday)


Serro San Cristobel Park - Funicular

Serro San Cristobel Park - Funicular

Cerro San Cristobel Park - View to Andes

Cerro San Cristobel Park - View to Andes

Cerro San Cristobel Park - View to Andes

Cerro San Cristobel Park - View to Andes

Cerro San Cristobel Park - View to Andes

Cerro San Cristobel Park - View to Andes

Cerro San Cristobel Park

Cerro San Cristobel Park

Cerro San Cristobel Park

Cerro San Cristobel Park

Cerro San Cristobel Park

Cerro San Cristobel Park

Cerro San Cristobel Park

Cerro San Cristobel Park

We tried a Mote before descending from the park (It is a non-alcoholic beverage consisting of a sweet clear nectar like liquid made with dried peaches (huesillo) cooked in sugar, water and cinnamon, and then once cooled mixed with fresh cooked husked wheat (mote) - actually quite sweet but tasty and very refreshing - and forgot to take picture whilst drinking it!!

We tried a Mote before descending from the park (It is a non-alcoholic beverage consisting of a sweet clear nectar like liquid made with dried peaches (huesillo) cooked in sugar, water and cinnamon, and then once cooled mixed with fresh cooked husked wheat (mote) - actually quite sweet but tasty and very refreshing - and forgot to take picture whilst drinking it!!


Serro San Cristobel Park - steep path down!

Serro San Cristobel Park - steep path down!

Santa Carolina winery tour

Having visited the Concha y Toro vineyard on our previous trip, for our last day in Santiago, we decided to try a different one this time, and found that the Santa Carolina wine tour was both highly rated and easy to get to by metro.  The winery was the first to be established in Santiago and the first South American wine to be awarded a gold medal at a wine fare in France!  Most of their wine nowadays is exported.

The winery is now surrounded by an industrial estate (a haven of peace amidst the noise and dust) and was cut in two by a road, with the vines being the other side of the road (and now no longer there).  Their bottling plant is still there (although not part of the tour) but otherwise, the property is used as the head office, for marketing, and the attractive gardens and original buildings are used for tours during the week and for functions (weddongs etc) at the weekends.  The original cellars (modelled on Bordeaux and Burgundy styles) are part of the tour.

A unique (in our experience) feature of this tour is that the three tastings are actually done as part of the tour (rather than at the end).  The tour guide was very good and gave us an interesting lesson in wine-tasting! - and what to look for.  The first tasting was in the gardens as he explained the history of the winery, and the second and third in the two wine cellars - so definitely in the atmosphere of the place!

Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour


Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour - palm tree planted when the winery was founded (143 years ago!)

Santa Carolina Winery tour - palm tree planted when the winery was founded (143 years ago!)


Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Wine tour

Santa Carolina Wine tour


Santa Carolina Winery tour

Santa Carolina Winery tour

Posted by Lindseyalan73 23:37 Archived in Chile Comments (0)

Valparaiso (13-16/10/2018)

Mendoza (Argentina) to Valparaiso (Chile) over the Andes - 8 hours  (not 6hr16min!) by bus including about an hour for Chilean customs formalities.

Mendoza (Argentina) to Valparaiso (Chile) over the Andes - 8 hours (not 6hr16min!) by bus including about an hour for Chilean customs formalities.

(All photos of the scenery were taken through the bus windows! Quite clear considering ...)

Mendoza to Valparaiso over the Andes

We left Mendoza (Argentina) on the bus for Chile at 0930 under blue skies and sun, and about 29° - a pleasant change after the cold and wet evening before, plus it meant there was snow on the mountains we could see from the bus station.  The journey took us across the Andes from Argentina to Chile - it has to be one of the most impressive journeys ever!   The scenery was absolutely amazing with the snow-capped mountains, the river valleys, and the different colours of the rocks against the blue sky!!  And then suddenly, after about 3 hours (of the hopefully only 8-hour journey) the weather changed, and we could see a storm ahead - and the next minute we were in the middle of a snow blizzard - incredible!  We could hardly see the Chile border control - but of course all had to get out and go through passport control and and their rigorous customs processes (all luggage off the bus and passed through scanners, sniffer dog...) - it took ages (about an hour) - in the freezing cold!  By the time we got back on the bus, the snow had settled and we were practically in a whiteout - and the road was descending by hair-pin bends!! We descended slowly and finally the sun returned for the rest of the journey and we arrived on time in Valparaiso.

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes15

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes15

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - with old railway bridge

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - with old railway bridge


Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - oops, weather does not look too good up front!

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - oops, weather does not look too good up front!


Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - weather deteriorating

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - weather deteriorating


Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - weather deteriorated

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - weather deteriorated


Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - weather deteriorated!

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - weather deteriorated!


Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - Los Penitentes Chilean border (in snow)

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - Los Penitentes Chilean border (in snow)

Sierra Finches (or similar?) at Chilean border

Sierra Finches (or similar?) at Chilean border

Sierra Finch (or similar?) at Chilean border

Sierra Finch (or similar?) at Chilean border

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - Los Penitentes Chilean border (in snow)

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - Los Penitentes Chilean border (in snow)

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - after Chilean border in snow storm

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - after Chilean border in snow storm


Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - after Chilean border in snow storm

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - after Chilean border in snow storm

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - after Chilean border in snow storm- hairpin bends - no barriers!

Mendoza to Chile across the Andes - after Chilean border in snow storm- hairpin bends - no barriers!


Mendoza to Valparaiso - down from the mountains in Chile - they are planting vines right up into the hills

Mendoza to Valparaiso - down from the mountains in Chile - they are planting vines right up into the hills

Valparaiso

Valparaiso (pop.300000) sprawls over a crescent of forty two hills that rear up out of the Pacific Ocean. It became a key port in the days when there was no Panama canal and the boats between Europe and the west coast of America had to round Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America. The opening of the Panama canal and a variety of other factors lead to its decline. However, since being declared a world heritage site its fortunes are reviving and attracting investment and much work is being done to renovate the historical centre and buildings, and build new galleries - and a lot of the centre of town really looks as though it needs it! The city is still an important naval base and is now the cultural capital of Chile.

Sunrise 0630 Sunset 2030 Temps Min 13 °C Max 24 °C sunny

Yellow House and Cerro Artilleria

Our accommodation was right the other side of town from the bus-station, up in the hills in Cerro Artilleria. We were happy to take a taxi (about 10 euros) which dropped us on the road nearby, and after some searching and help from a local, we found the Yellow House. It was quite a mixture of a place to stay - funny bedroom with 3 beds and little room for anything else, the only shared bathroom this trip (happily no-one else was staying on our floor), spectacular views from our bedroom, fair 'included' breakfast and a little expensive for what it was (but Valparaiso seems more expensive for accommodation). Pleasant young German student working there who helped us with info and was good fun and interesting to chat to.

Very close to the Yellow House, the Ascensor Artilleria is one of many funiculars taking people up to the cerros (hills). From the top there is a superb panoramic view along the coast from the container port and harbour directly below to Vina del Mar and the dunes at Concon, as well of the hills behind.

Of course, the position means that going out anywhere required negotiating a steep path/steps or taking the Ascensor. Once at the bottom there is a choice of continuing on foot the 10-15 minutes into the centre (through a bit of a risky area at night), and the historic trolley bus service, or collectivos (small buses) for longer journeys.

Yellow House (entrance)

Yellow House (entrance)

The Yellow House - Breakfast

The Yellow House - Breakfast

Yellow House dining room windows

Yellow House dining room windows

Yellow House - view from bedroom window

Yellow House - view from bedroom window

Yellow House - view from bedroom window

Yellow House - view from bedroom window

Yellow House - view from bedroom window

Yellow House - view from bedroom window

Ascensor up to Cerro Artilleria

Ascensor up to Cerro Artilleria

Ascensor down from Cerro Artilleria

Ascensor down from Cerro Artilleria

View from Cerro Artilleria

View from Cerro Artilleria


View from Cerro Artilleria

View from Cerro Artilleria

View from Cerro Artilleria

View from Cerro Artilleria


Steps down for Serro Artilleria

Steps down for Serro Artilleria

Steps down from Cerro Artilleria

Steps down from Cerro Artilleria

view from Cerro Artilleria at night

view from Cerro Artilleria at night

Downtown and trolley bus ride

Much of the central area of the town is pretty run down with many derelict buildings, but the main Sotomayer square with the Admiralty building and adjoining the small harbour area, is attractive. Further north, Plaza Victoria is also a pleasant square with trees. Otherwise, it is necessary to get up into the hills to enjoy the best of Valpo.

Taking the trolley bus on a round trip is a good way to get an introduction to the Valparaiso, particularly as the trolley buses are an important part of Valparaiso's heritage. More than half of the fleet dates from the early 1950's - the old ones being of Swiss origin. As the service runs from just below our Ascensor right through to the bus station at the other end of town, we used it to do our initial scenic tour and for getting around generally. Its cheap too at about 30 eurocents a journey!

Swiss built 1950's trolley bus

Swiss built 1950's trolley bus

Trolley bus around Valparaiso town

Trolley bus around Valparaiso town


Trolley bus interior - quite plush seats!

Trolley bus interior - quite plush seats!

Around Valparaiso town

Around Valparaiso town

Around Valparaiso town

Around Valparaiso town

Around Valparaiso town

Around Valparaiso town


Trolley bus around Valparaiso town

Trolley bus around Valparaiso town

Around Valparaiso town

Around Valparaiso town

Around Valparaiso town

Around Valparaiso town

Trolley bus around Valparaiso town

Trolley bus around Valparaiso town

Plaza Sotomayer and harbour

Next to the Plaza Sotomayor, the small harbour area has some picturesque boats which are used for short tours around the harbour. There are also a number of souvenir shops and a helpful/useful tourist office.

After hanging around for some time, resisting attempts of the go-betweens to extract inflated prices for 'personal' tours, we took the short harbour tour - there were good views from the sea back into the hills behind, two or three naval boats and a large container ship being loaded, and the opportunity to get close to several basking sealions.

Plaza Sotomayor

Plaza Sotomayor

Statue in Plaza Sotomayer

Statue in Plaza Sotomayer

Harbour

Harbour

Harbour tour

Harbour tour

Harbour tour - view of Valpairaiso hills

Harbour tour - view of Valpairaiso hills

Harbour tour - container ship

Harbour tour - container ship

Harbour tour - Sealion (Female posing!)

Harbour tour - Sealion (Female posing!)

Harbour tour - Sealion (Male reflecting!)

Harbour tour - Sealion (Male reflecting!)

Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion

These barrios are in the hills behind the centre of Valpo are very attractive areas to walk around with fine architecture, buildings covered in colourful murals, etc

large_DSC05136.JPGReina Victoria funicular

Reina Victoria funicular

Reina Victoria funicular

Reina Victoria funicular

Cerro Concepcion

Cerro Concepcion

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion  cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Around the Alegre and Concepcion cerros

Local cuisine!

Found a very good (if rather run-down looking) empanada restaurant for lunch - Alan enjoyed the 'pina' empanada which we decided was Argentina's answer to a Cornish pasty, and I had the cheese and olives version - delicious!

A favourite dish of the Chileans is the Chorrillana - generally served for 2 it is basically comprised of chips, strips of meat, good quantities of onion and eggs! In the end we succumbed, and tried one on the last night at a classic old joint, bizarrely called Casino Social JJ Cruz, at the end of a seedy looking alley. That was the only dish they offer - but they did also make a good Pisco Sour (Chile's favourite cocktail drink) for the apero.

Famosa Empenada restaurant!

Famosa Empenada restaurant!

Empanadas

Empanadas

Casino Social JJ Cruz - Chorrillana - cholesterol special!

Casino Social JJ Cruz - Chorrillana - cholesterol special!

Casino Social JJ Cruz

Casino Social JJ Cruz

Casino Social JJ Cruz - Cat keeping eye on customers!

Casino Social JJ Cruz - Cat keeping eye on customers!

La Sebastiana

La Sebastiana was the home of Pablo Neruda, a very famous (in Chile) poet and diplomat. He chose it because it was quite unique and has a spectacular view over the whole of Valparaiso. He then did it up and furnished it to his own taste. We found out that we could get there from next to the bottom of our Ascensor by collectivo bus, using a route which takes a very bendy, sinuous route in the hills all the way. Collectivo drivers drive the whole time at breakneck speed so it was not a trip for taking leisurely photos out of the window!

Unfortunately, the house is currently covered in scaffolding and the 4th level bedroom is closed - so, as we had visited it 10 years ago when we first visited Valpo, we debated whether to bother this time. Anyway, we did go ahead and they provided us with audioguides (which we think are a new development since our previous visit) - and we enjoyed the visit - he was an interesting and talented man.

(Photos of the interior are not allowed)

Collectivo (bus) to La Sebastiana

Collectivo (bus) to La Sebastiana

La Sebastiana and scaffolding!

La Sebastiana and scaffolding!

La Sebastiana as it should look!,<br />- photo from our visit in 2008!

La Sebastiana as it should look!,
- photo from our visit in 2008!


La Sebastiana - View from top (5th) floor study

La Sebastiana - View from top (5th) floor study

Panoramic view from La Sebastiana 1

Panoramic view from La Sebastiana 1

Panoramic view from La Sebastiana 2

Panoramic view from La Sebastiana 2

Area near La Sebastiana

Area near La Sebastiana

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Walking down from La Sebastiana, we arrived in the attractive Cello Bellavista area, where 27 well-known artists created many murals over quite a large area which is known as the 'Open Air Museum'. There is a map to help trace it from the tourist office.

Bellavista Barrio

Bellavista Barrio

Bellavista Barrio

Bellavista Barrio

Bellavista Barrio - small supermercado!

Bellavista Barrio - small supermercado!

Bellavista Barrio

Bellavista Barrio

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Bellavista Barrio and 'Open Air Museum'

Vina del Mar outing

On our last afternoon, we took the metro north to the seaside resort of Vina del Mar. It is completely different from Valpo - very modern and seems more like a US town. There's a long stretch of beach to visit heading north from the town. The sea is VERY cold!

Vina del Mar at O'Higgins square

Vina del Mar at O'Higgins square

Vina del Mar behind beach

Vina del Mar behind beach

Vina del Mar main beach

Vina del Mar main beach

large_DSC05257.JPGVina del Mar - testing the water

Vina del Mar - testing the water

Vina del Mar - testing the water - glacial!

Vina del Mar - testing the water - glacial!

Vina del Mar - view north towards dunes at Concon

Vina del Mar - view north towards dunes at Concon

Pelicans at Portales (metro stop on way back from Vina del Mar)

Pelicans at Portales (metro stop on way back from Vina del Mar)

Posted by Lindseyalan73 15:17 Archived in Chile Comments (0)

Mendoza (9-13/11/2018)

Cordoba to Mendoza

It was another long bus journey! - we left Cordoba in bright sunshine(!) at 0730 for the 11 hour journey to Mendoza. It's a BIG country - the scenery was amazing - kilometre after kilometre of flat countryside disappearing into the distance - seemingly endless panoramas and big skies. There were quite a few stops at bus terminals but, unlike Brazil where there are meal stops and everyone gets out for 30 minutes, here, only people finishing their journeys were encouraged to get off the bus.

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - first half

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - first half

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - second half!

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - second half!

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - country dwelling

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - country dwelling

Cordoba to Mendoza by bus - finally some hills!

Cordoba to Mendoza by bus - finally some hills!

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - near Mendiza - with vines!

Bus trip Cordoba to Mendoza - near Mendiza - with vines!

Hostal Confluencia

Arrived in Mendoza in the sun, and took a taxi from the bus terminal to our accommodation - Hostal Confluencia - which has an excellent central location.  We had a very friendly welcome from the people on reception. Great large bedroom in a corner of the second floor of the building with lots of windows looking out over the greenery of the trees and down onto a busy crossroads.  A minor inconvenience is that the private individual bathrooms are all located across the corridor from the bedrooms. 'Included' breakfast, lovely roof garden ... at less than 20 euros per night it is the cheapest and best value accommodation we have had on this trip.

Hostal Confluencia

Hostal Confluencia

Hostal Confluencia

Hostal Confluencia

Hostal Confluencia - roof garden

Hostal Confluencia - roof garden

Hostal Confluencia - roof garden

Hostal Confluencia - roof garden


Hostal Confluencia - Street view from our room

Hostal Confluencia - Street view from our room


Hostal Confluencia - Morning coffee seller on street outside

Hostal Confluencia - Morning coffee seller on street outside


Hostal Confluencia

Hostal Confluencia


Hostal Confluencia

Hostal Confluencia

Around Mendoza

Mendoza is a pleasant small city with a population of 140000.  It is the wine capital of Argentina and is lively and affluent. It seems that all roads in the city are lined by mature trees, which give shade from the sun (which apparently shines practically all the time - except for a lot of the time during our stay!), but means that buildings are often quite obscured for photographs! We have not come across many markets on this trip but here in Mendoza the Mercado Central was just round the corner from the hotel.

There are several pleasant squares and a couple of attractive parks to see but, with the poor weather, we did not get the opportunity to visit them.

With help from the Hostal staff and from two friendly local couples who happened to be sitting next to us on different nights, we found a great variety of spots to eat and drink over the weekend - pizza, pasta, parillada (mixed meat barbecue), burger, wrap ... not to mention the liquid sustenance! Fortunately, one gets a lot of exercise travelling, but eating out in South America is rather more copious and the food less healthy than at home!! Must go on a diet on our return!

Mendoza - Around town centre - typical leafy street

Mendoza - Around town centre - typical leafy street

Mendoza - Around town centre

Mendoza - Around town centre

Don't fall down the hole!

Don't fall down the hole!

Typical large hole in pavement! - tree removed - hole left!

Typical large hole in pavement! - tree removed - hole left!

Mendoza - around town

Mendoza - around town

Around town

Around town

Mercado Central

Mercado Central

Mercado Central

Mercado Central

Mercado Central - Cake and sandwich (white) display (Note: the cut, sliced white sandwiches  - popular all over Argentina it seems)

Mercado Central - Cake and sandwich (white) display (Note: the cut, sliced white sandwiches - popular all over Argentina it seems)

Mercado Central - 'Promocion': 2 slices of pizza and a "chopp" (draft beer) for under 2 euros!

Mercado Central - 'Promocion': 2 slices of pizza and a "chopp" (draft beer) for under 2 euros!

Wine

Wine is, of course, the main reason that tourists come to Mendoza. We decided to limit our visits to the two main areas we could get to reasonably easily by local transport rather than take an expensive wine tasting tour. The two areas we visited were Maipu and Coquimbito which are, it has to be said, not endowed with many grape vines! They do have bodegas there, with token fields of vines, but for a better experience, a visit to, say, the Uco valley (about 2 hours away in the foothills of the Andes), would be a better experience.

Maipu

Our first day in Mendoza we had good weather so, after we had spent the morning walking across town to the bus station to buy tickets for the bus to Valparaiso, and wandered round town, we decided to visit the nearby town of Maipu where there are a couple of bodegas which can be visited. It involved quite a lot of time getting to the outskirts of Maipu by tram, walking to the bodegas and into Maipu itself and a long bus-ride back, and turned out to be a bit of a waste of a pleasant afternoon! Firstly, the Lopez winery offering free tastings, which should have been open all day, was shut! Then, the other bodega we visited, the Antigua Bodega Giol was at least open and the lady handling the tastings was friendly, but they no longer produce their own wine and the tastings were mediocre. She did take our photo for their Facebook page though! A couple of photos for the record ...

Antigua Bodega Giol

Antigua Bodega Giol

Antigua Bodega Giol

Antigua Bodeba Giol - tasting

Antigua Bodeba Giol - tasting

Coquimbito

Sunday was not a good day weatherwise, and wineries are mostly closed, so we did not get much more done than a short walk round town. At least it was not raining on Monday when we caught the bus out to Coquimbito and it turned out to be a much more successful day! After 45 minutes on the bus and 15 minutes walk we arrived at the Bodega Rural - one of the oldest bodegas in Argentina. It offered a tour for around 8 euros - an interesting museum of old winemaking implements and a couple of tastings of pleasant wine. At the end we got a pleasant surprise - the full value of our tour tickets could be used to buy bottles or glasses of wine!! Of course, we can't carry any wine, but the value of the tour ticket was exactly the cost of two ample glasses of very good wine each (we had one white and one red each!). Say no more!

Bodega La Rural

Bodega La Rural

Bodega La Rural

Bodega La Rural - vines!

Bodega La Rural - vines!

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - museum tour

Bodega La Rural - tasting at end of tour

Bodega La Rural - tasting at end of tour

Bodega La Rural - 2 ample glasses to savour!

Bodega La Rural - 2 ample glasses to savour!

Bodega La Rural - Tasting!

Bodega La Rural - Tasting!

Walk from Bodega La Rural to Trapiche Bodega (a full hour!)

Walk from Bodega La Rural to Trapiche Bodega (a full hour!)

Trapiche Bodega

The lady serving us at the Bodega Rural told us it was only about 15 minutes to walk on to the other winery we wanted to visit, on unpaved roads through the countryside. She obviously had never tried it herself on foot - we arrived at the Trapiche winery about an hour later! This is quite an upmarket winery/vineyard where we had an interesting tour, followed by a tasting of three very good wines, for a little more than the "Rural" tour - but no freebies this time. It was raining by now - 15 minutes walk back to the main road, and back into town on the bus.

Trapiche Bodega

Trapiche Bodega

Trapiche Bodega

Trapiche Bodega

Trapiche Bodega - tour

Trapiche Bodega - tour

Trapiche Bodega - tour

Trapiche Bodega - tour

Trapiche Bodega - tasting room

Trapiche Bodega - tasting room

Trapiche Bodega - tasting

Trapiche Bodega - tasting

We would have preferred better weather, but we really enjoyed Mendoza and our time there.

Posted by Lindseyalan73 15:18 Archived in Argentina Comments (0)

Cordoba (5-9/11/2018)

Sunrise 0611 Sunset 1950 Temps (at best) Min 15 °C Max 28 °C variable

We left Salta at 21.30 for our second and last overnight bus journey, heading for Cordoba (hopefully a mere 11 hour journey)..  We had got tickets for the cama class with large padded seats which recline practically to horizontal and have padded leg rests. Comfort assured?  Although we had bought the tickets shortly after arrival in Salta, we had the last side-by-side seats on this Sunday night bus - and they were right at the back.  With the roads being pretty bumpy, we were practically being tossed out of our seats at times and, as for eating/drinking the meal the hostess bought us ... ... fortunately the 'meal' was so awful we did not want to eat it anyway!  The bus did at least arrive on time at 08h30 the following morning.

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba (Cama class)

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba (Cama class)

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba (Cama class)

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba (Cama class)

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba

Our hotel - the Casa Urbana - was just 5 minutes walk from the bus station and 20 minutes walk from the town centre.  Not a brilliant room (small but OK), decent breakfast included, very friendly and helpful staff on reception and good location.

Hotel Casa Urbana

Hotel Casa Urbana

Cordoba is the number two city in Argentina with a population of 1.4 million, and it certainly felt like a busy lively big city.  It is the one place we have visited on this trip with no tourist shops!  There is a student population of well over 150,000 which makes it lively. We enjoyed the place a lot.

The weather was quite variable and we had to shelter from heavy rain at times but it improved for the last couple of days.  We enjoyed walking around the extensive pedestrianised streets which, if not already shaded by jacaranda trees with their beautiful purple spring blossom, frequently have metal structures erected which are trained with bougainvilla to provide colour and shade, plus there are enormous old trees lining the main traffic routes.

Cordoba - around town

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Cathedral - Plaza San Martin

Cathedral - Plaza San Martin

Cathedral - Plaza San Martin

Cathedral - Plaza San Martin

Cathedral

Cathedral


Cordoba centre pedestrian area

Cordoba centre pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area - Plaza del Fundador

Cordoba - central pedestrian area - Plaza del Fundador

Cordoba - central pedestrian area with jacaranda tree in blossom

Cordoba - central pedestrian area with jacaranda tree in blossom

Cordoba - central pedestrian area with jacaranda tree in blossom

Cordoba - central pedestrian area with jacaranda tree in blossom

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area


Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba - very thin building!

Cordoba - very thin building!

Fortunately on the first day we were told of a couple of great places to head for the hotel reception staff. The first was the Paseo de Bien Pastor area in town with lots of restaurants and bars, about 10 minutes walk from the hotel, and which, in decent weather, is absolutely heaving in the evening (mainly with students).  Here, we discovered the Patagonia bar which sells excellent Patagonia beers from the south of Argentina. And here we were recommended their delicious "km24.8" brew.  In the Happy Hour (pre 20h00) they sell their pints at just 80 ARS (about 2 euros!) so we just had to join the masses (most about a third of our age!) for a pint each evening before our meal.  The other recommendation was the Cliento Volando restaurant just a block away from our hotel on the way back from Paseo de Bien Pastor - good food, varied choice, friendly waiter, and inexpensive.  We also checked out and enjoyed the local empanadas (small pies) for lunch and locro (meat, sweetcorn and beans stew) for dinner - at the simple but enjoyable corner joint (La Vieja Esquina).

Cordoba - entertainment!

Paseo del Buen Pastor area (and Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus church opposite)

Paseo del Buen Pastor

Paseo del Buen Pastor

Paseo del Buen Pastor

Paseo del Buen Pastor

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar - excellent "km 24.7" beer

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar - excellent "km 24.7" beer

The church nearby was impressive and well lit in the evenings

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

La Vieja Esquina

La Vieja Esquina for dinner (with Locra - meat and corn stew)

La Vieja Esquina for dinner (with Locra - meat and corn stew)


La Vieja Esquina for dinner (with Locra - meat and corn stew)

La Vieja Esquina for dinner (with Locra - meat and corn stew)


La Vieja Esquina - bite for lunch (empanadas)

La Vieja Esquina - bite for lunch (empanadas)

Cordoba - Museums etc

Cordoba is heavily influenced by its Jesuit origins - and its impressive buildings reflect this. We managed to visit several of the sights, including:

- the Manzana Jesuitica - basically an amazing Baroque church with the curved roof constructed with wood and no nails - we were fortunate to have a personal, practically free, guided tour by a very knowledgable and very good English speaker, who gave us a lot of insight into the Jesuits in Argentina and Argentina generally - while showing us round part of the original university

- Archivo Provincial/Museo dela Memoria - a poignant memorial museum to the many who were tortured and 'disappeared' in Cordoba in the days of military rule in Argentina. It is located in the original Police Intelligence Department known in the 70s as a Torture and Extermination Clandestine Detention Center.  Many young people were taken from their families in the 70's and were never seen again. It was a shock to us - these were young people of our generation - and this was happening while we were at university.

- Museo Marques de Sobremonte (only surviving colonial residence in the city).

Manzana Jesuitica

Manzana Jesuitica

Manzana Jesuitica

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica

Manzana Jesuitica

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Money

An aside - we noticed very long queues of locals at certain banks to use the ATMs.  We are still not sure why ...  No change for us regarding the paltry amounts that can be withdrawn at one time and the very high commission fees .  We are still trying to pay for as much as possible by whatever card is accepted, changed some more euros here in Cordoba and have not had to use any ATMs since our first withdrawal in Puerto Iguazu. Also, still finding that some places (restaurants mainly) don't accept Mastercard - only Visa!

Queuing to access cash machines

Queuing to access cash machines

Day out in Alta Gracia

One day we went out on the local bus to Alta Gracia - a small town about 40 kms south.  Here, we visited the excellent Estancia Jesuitica Alla Gracia and then walked through a very pleasant neighbourhood (with large colonial houses) to the Museo Casa de Ché Guevara and the Museo Manuel de Falla, before taking the bus back.

Ché Guevara is, of course, a name well known to us from our student days.  He lived at the house in Alta Gracia for some years in his youth wth his family, and the exhibition has plenty of his personal belongings and photos, and traces his travels, involvement with Castro in the Cuban revolution and eventual (young) death whilst engaged in a revolution in Bolivia.

Not being classical music buffs, we had not heard of Manuel de Falla, but he is the most famous Spanish classical music composer and conductor and he lived his last years at the house in Alta Gracia. There was some interesting art work on display - including portraits of de Falla by his friends, Picasso and Dali. A very good day out.

Jesuit Mission

Alta Gracia - Clock tower and tourist office

Alta Gracia - Clock tower and tourist office

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

large_DSC04614.JPGEstancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit church

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit church

Colourful tree

Colourful tree


Colourful tree - the red things are seed pods!

Colourful tree - the red things are seed pods!

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara Museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Old car in residential area - Alta Gracia

Old car in residential area - Alta Gracia

Casa de Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Posted by Lindseyalan73 17:59 Archived in Argentina Comments (0)

Salta (31/10-4/10/2018)

Sunrise 0632 Sunset 1939 Temps (at best) Min 17 °C Max 29 °C but variable weather

Puerto Iguazu to Salta by road is about 30 hours, so we took a flight instead !  There was a major storm all night and it was still raining very heavily as we left our pousada in Puerto Iguazu in the taxi for the 1030 flight.  We felt sorry for the American couple we had been talking to the previous day who said they would be visiting the Brazilian side of the falls today!

Although an hour or so late leaving, the flight was fine and we arrived in Salta in grey, but much more clement, weather.  The taxi for the 10km ride to our posada in Salta got us there safely - but then problems started!  The place did not give a positive impression on arrival, and when we were shown the room we definitely knew we did not want to stay there for 4 nights! (our first accommodation disappointment of the trip!)  So, we left and found a tourist office who suggested a few places and we then walked to the main square and did what we did in the old days before the internet was available - found a table at a cafe, left Lindsey with the rucksacks and I went on a wander to find a place to stay.  Problem: the Salta Olympics (!) were taking place from Thursday (the following day) to the weekend, and so accommodation for 4 consecutive nights was not obvious !  I disappeared for long stretches (and got to see the town) and Lindsey started to get quite concerned about me!.  To cut a long story short ... after several hours, at about 18h00 we ended up with the mid-range Hotel Wilson for 1 night but knowing that they had nothing free for the following night - so had the prospect of searching again the following day!!  Anyway, when we went down to breakfast the next morning, the manager was able to confirm we would be ok for the four nights there.  Phew!   (Incidentally, the posada did not enforce the cancellation fees - we had sent a complaint to booking.com).

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Around Salta on a grey day

Sliced white bread sandwiches - popular like this!

Sliced white bread sandwiches - popular like this!

Around Salta on a grey day - chatting to a local!

Around Salta on a grey day - chatting to a local!

We had been told by several people,before we arrived in Salta, what a lovely town it is. But on a grey day and after our initial problems we were not so sure! However, in the following days, with the sun shining, the tree-filled main square (Plazza de 9 Julio), which is surrounded by some beautiful colonial architecture and the cathedral, looked lovely, and walking around the residential areas to the north of the square was very pleasant - plus we found a couple of great places to eat (Viracocha restaurant and Dona Salta) - things definitely looked much better. Also, the area (Salta/Cafayate/Cachi) now rivals Mendoza for the quality of its wines - Malbec (red) and the local speciality Torrontes (delicious fruity dry white) are the main varieties.  Good bottles in a restaurant can easily be had for 5-8 euros!!

Hotel Wilson - our hotel, finally!

Hotel Wilson - our hotel, finally!

Plaza 9 de Julio

Plaza 9 de Julio

Plaza 9 de Julio

Plaza 9 de Julio

Plaza 9 de Julio

Plaza 9 de Julio

Around Plaza 9 de Julio

Around Plaza 9 de Julio

towards the Cathedral

towards the Cathedral

Cathedral

Cathedral

Cathedral interior

Cathedral interior

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta!! - Carrefour!

Around central Salta!! - Carrefour!

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Around central Salta

Basilica San Fernando

Basilica San Fernando

Around Salta town

Around Salta town

Cathedral at night

Cathedral at night

Arund Plaza 9 de Julio at night

Arund Plaza 9 de Julio at night

Arund Plaza 9 de Julio at night

Arund Plaza 9 de Julio at night

Basilica San Fernando

Basilica San Fernando

Viracocha Restaurant

Viracocha Restaurant

Viracocha Restaurant

Viracocha Restaurant

Dona Salta restaurant

Dona Salta restaurant

Dona Salta restaurant

Dona Salta restaurant

There is some very spectacular scenery, and attractive places to stay (eg Cafayate and Cachi) around Salta, so we will have to go back some time!  However, we did go on a day-tour south to Cafayate with a tour company recommended by the manager at our hotel.  As it is 200 kms to Cafayate, we left the hotel in a minibus with guide at 07h30 - and did not get back until more than 12 hours later at 20h15.  Good value at around 25 euros per person. We were lucky again with the weather, hot and sunny. The last 40kms before Cafayate pass through the Quebrada de las Conchas, where the scenery is amazing - we stopped several times on the way to have a closer look at some of the spectacular sights, and to walk up to and into the enormous rock formations. Our guide was a real character - very knowledgeable and interesting, he educated us in the habits of traditional Argentina (how to use coca leaves, and prepare and drink mate), and also performed a 'sonnet' with a busker friend he meet up with in the Amphitheatre - very powerful (we certainly got the gist - even if we didn't understand it!) - see photo. We finally arrived in Cafayate - and had a couple of hours in the attractive colonial town - before an excellent visit to the Domingo Hermanos Bodega for a tasting of their local wines. An action-packed, very good day out - we didn't even make it into town on our return!

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate - Agustin the guide

On the way to Cafayate - Agustin the guide

On the way to Cafayate - lots of Cactus

On the way to Cafayate - lots of Cactus

On the way to Cafayate - large cactus

On the way to Cafayate - large cactus

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

large_IMG_6064.JPGOn the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate


On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate


On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas


On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas


On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

On the way to Cafayate - Quebrada de las Conchas

Around Cafayate

Around Cafayate

Around Cafayate

Around Cafayate

Lunch at Cafayate - Empanadas at home brew restaurant

Lunch at Cafayate - Empanadas at home brew restaurant


Cafayate craft market

Cafayate craft market

Domingo Hermanos Bodega

Domingo Hermanos Bodega

Domingo Hermanos Bodega - vines

Domingo Hermanos Bodega - vines

Domingo Hermanos Bodega - wine tasting

Domingo Hermanos Bodega - wine tasting

Domingo Hermanos Bodega - wine tasting - by our guide!

Domingo Hermanos Bodega - wine tasting - by our guide!


On the way back from Cafayate - road heading for Andes

On the way back from Cafayate - road heading for Andes


On the return from Cafayate - with snow on distant volcano

On the return from Cafayate - with snow on distant volcano


On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate


On the return from Cafayate

On the return from Cafayate


On the return from Cafayate

On the return from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate

On the way back from Cafayate - our transport

On the way back from Cafayate - our transport

On the return from Cafayate

On the return from Cafayate

On the return from Cafayate - "The Auditorium"

On the return from Cafayate - "The Auditorium"

On the return from Cafayate - our guide and local busker in "the Auditorium"

On the return from Cafayate - our guide and local busker in "the Auditorium"

There is also a cable car up a hill to the west of the city which gives great views of the town and surroundings.  We took the cable car up, and then walked down - quite a tortuous (but pleasant) descent with apparently 1070 steps!  We passed several locals running/walking up the steps to keep themselves fit.....walking down was enough for us!

Cable car up San Bernando Hill

Cable car up San Bernando Hill

San Bernando statue

San Bernando statue

View from San Bernando Hill

View from San Bernando Hill

View from San Bernando Hill

View from San Bernando Hill

View from San Bernando Hill

View from San Bernando Hill

Basilica San Fernando from San Bernando Hill

Basilica San Fernando from San Bernando Hill

Path down from San Fernando hill

Path down from San Fernando hill

View from path down from San Fernando hill

View from path down from San Fernando hill

Path down from San Fernando hill

Path down from San Fernando hill

General Quemes statue at bottom of San Fernando hill

General Quemes statue at bottom of San Fernando hill

Bulboüs and very prickly tree near bottom of San Fernando hill

Bulboüs and very prickly tree near bottom of San Fernando hill

Near bottom of San Fernando hill

Near bottom of San Fernando hill

In the end Salta grew on us and we had a very enjoyable stay - we would certainly go back to spend more time in the surrounding region.

Posted by Lindseyalan73 12:05 Archived in Argentina Comments (0)

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