A Travellerspoint blog

Cordoba (5-9/11/2018)

Sunrise 0611 Sunset 1950 Temps (at best) Min 15 °C Max 28 °C variable

We left Salta at 21.30 for our second and last overnight bus journey, heading for Cordoba (hopefully a mere 11 hour journey)..  We had got tickets for the cama class with large padded seats which recline practically to horizontal and have padded leg rests. Comfort assured?  Although we had bought the tickets shortly after arrival in Salta, we had the last side-by-side seats on this Sunday night bus - and they were right at the back.  With the roads being pretty bumpy, we were practically being tossed out of our seats at times and, as for eating/drinking the meal the hostess bought us ... ... fortunately the 'meal' was so awful we did not want to eat it anyway!  The bus did at least arrive on time at 08h30 the following morning.

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba (Cama class)

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba (Cama class)

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba (Cama class)

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba (Cama class)

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba

Overnight bus - Salta to Cordoba

Our hotel - the Casa Urbana - was just 5 minutes walk from the bus station and 20 minutes walk from the town centre.  Not a brilliant room (small but OK), decent breakfast included, very friendly and helpful staff on reception and good location.

Hotel Casa Urbana

Hotel Casa Urbana

Cordoba is the number two city in Argentina with a population of 1.4 million, and it certainly felt like a busy lively big city.  It is the one place we have visited on this trip with no tourist shops!  There is a student population of well over 150,000 which makes it lively. We enjoyed the place a lot.

The weather was quite variable and we had to shelter from heavy rain at times but it improved for the last couple of days.  We enjoyed walking around the extensive pedestrianised streets which, if not already shaded by jacaranda trees with their beautiful purple spring blossom, frequently have metal structures erected which are trained with bougainvilla to provide colour and shade, plus there are enormous old trees lining the main traffic routes.

Cordoba - around town

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Plaza San Martin

Cathedral - Plaza San Martin

Cathedral - Plaza San Martin

Cathedral - Plaza San Martin

Cathedral - Plaza San Martin

Cathedral

Cathedral


Cordoba centre pedestrian area

Cordoba centre pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area - Plaza del Fundador

Cordoba - central pedestrian area - Plaza del Fundador

Cordoba - central pedestrian area with jacaranda tree in blossom

Cordoba - central pedestrian area with jacaranda tree in blossom

Cordoba - central pedestrian area with jacaranda tree in blossom

Cordoba - central pedestrian area with jacaranda tree in blossom

Cordoba - central pedestrian area

Cordoba - central pedestrian area


Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba centre

Cordoba - very thin building!

Cordoba - very thin building!

Fortunately on the first day we were told of a couple of great places to head for the hotel reception staff. The first was the Paseo de Bien Pastor area in town with lots of restaurants and bars, about 10 minutes walk from the hotel, and which, in decent weather, is absolutely heaving in the evening (mainly with students).  Here, we discovered the Patagonia bar which sells excellent Patagonia beers from the south of Argentina. And here we were recommended their delicious "km24.8" brew.  In the Happy Hour (pre 20h00) they sell their pints at just 80 ARS (about 2 euros!) so we just had to join the masses (most about a third of our age!) for a pint each evening before our meal.  The other recommendation was the Cliento Volando restaurant just a block away from our hotel on the way back from Paseo de Bien Pastor - good food, varied choice, friendly waiter, and inexpensive.  We also checked out and enjoyed the local empanadas (small pies) for lunch and locro (meat, sweetcorn and beans stew) for dinner - at the simple but enjoyable corner joint (La Vieja Esquina).

Cordoba - entertainment!

Paseo del Buen Pastor area (and Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus church opposite)

Paseo del Buen Pastor

Paseo del Buen Pastor

Paseo del Buen Pastor

Paseo del Buen Pastor

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar - excellent "km 24.7" beer

Paseo del Buen Pastor - Patagonia beer bar - excellent "km 24.7" beer

The church nearby was impressive and well lit in the evenings

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

La Vieja Esquina

La Vieja Esquina for dinner (with Locra - meat and corn stew)

La Vieja Esquina for dinner (with Locra - meat and corn stew)


La Vieja Esquina for dinner (with Locra - meat and corn stew)

La Vieja Esquina for dinner (with Locra - meat and corn stew)


La Vieja Esquina - bite for lunch (empanadas)

La Vieja Esquina - bite for lunch (empanadas)

Cordoba - Museums etc

Cordoba is heavily influenced by its Jesuit origins - and its impressive buildings reflect this. We managed to visit several of the sights, including:

- the Manzana Jesuitica - basically an amazing Baroque church with the curved roof constructed with wood and no nails - we were fortunate to have a personal, practically free, guided tour by a very knowledgable and very good English speaker, who gave us a lot of insight into the Jesuits in Argentina and Argentina generally - while showing us round part of the original university

- Archivo Provincial/Museo dela Memoria - a poignant memorial museum to the many who were tortured and 'disappeared' in Cordoba in the days of military rule in Argentina. It is located in the original Police Intelligence Department known in the 70s as a Torture and Extermination Clandestine Detention Center.  Many young people were taken from their families in the 70's and were never seen again. It was a shock to us - these were young people of our generation - and this was happening while we were at university.

- Museo Marques de Sobremonte (only surviving colonial residence in the city).

Manzana Jesuitica

Manzana Jesuitica

Manzana Jesuitica

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica - Jesuit church

Manzana Jesuitica

Manzana Jesuitica

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museu de la Memoria - in memory of the 'disappeared'

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Museo Marques de Sobremonte

Money

An aside - we noticed very long queues of locals at certain banks to use the ATMs.  We are still not sure why ...  No change for us regarding the paltry amounts that can be withdrawn at one time and the very high commission fees .  We are still trying to pay for as much as possible by whatever card is accepted, changed some more euros here in Cordoba and have not had to use any ATMs since our first withdrawal in Puerto Iguazu. Also, still finding that some places (restaurants mainly) don't accept Mastercard - only Visa!

Queuing to access cash machines

Queuing to access cash machines

Day out in Alta Gracia

One day we went out on the local bus to Alta Gracia - a small town about 40 kms south.  Here, we visited the excellent Estancia Jesuitica Alla Gracia and then walked through a very pleasant neighbourhood (with large colonial houses) to the Museo Casa de Ché Guevara and the Museo Manuel de Falla, before taking the bus back.

Ché Guevara is, of course, a name well known to us from our student days.  He lived at the house in Alta Gracia for some years in his youth wth his family, and the exhibition has plenty of his personal belongings and photos, and traces his travels, involvement with Castro in the Cuban revolution and eventual (young) death whilst engaged in a revolution in Bolivia.

Not being classical music buffs, we had not heard of Manuel de Falla, but he is the most famous Spanish classical music composer and conductor and he lived his last years at the house in Alta Gracia. There was some interesting art work on display - including portraits of de Falla by his friends, Picasso and Dali. A very good day out.

Jesuit Mission

Alta Gracia - Clock tower and tourist office

Alta Gracia - Clock tower and tourist office

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

large_DSC04614.JPGEstancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit mission

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit church

Estancia Jesuitica de Alta Gracia - Jesuit church

Colourful tree

Colourful tree


Colourful tree - the red things are seed pods!

Colourful tree - the red things are seed pods!

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara Museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Casa del Ché (Ché Guevara museum)

Old car in residential area - Alta Gracia

Old car in residential area - Alta Gracia

Casa de Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Museu Manuel de Falla

Posted by Lindseyalan73 17:59 Archived in Argentina

Table of contents

Be the first to comment on this entry.

This blog requires you to be a logged in member of Travellerspoint to place comments.

Login